LAST INSTALLMENT of ISRAEL 2010

CHRIST’S JOURNEY and OUR OWN

We walked the path from Bethany on the top of the Mount of Olives, down to the old city wall of Jerusalem. Along the way we stopped at the Church of Pater Noster – the place on the Mount of Olives where Jesus taught the disciples the “Lord’s Prayer.” Here on the walls of the shrine, the Lord’s Prayer is printed on ceramic tiles in 115 languages. Next we stopped at the Church of Dominus Flavit – where it is believed that Jesus stopped to weep on His way to the Garden to pray. The architecture of the church is tear shaped and offers a perfect view of the Temple Mount. The Garden of Gethsemane hosts a 2,500 year old olive tree that still send out shoots.

As we entered the old city, we came to the Church of St. Anne, mother of Mary, the Mother of Jesus. The church has perfect acoustics. A highlight of the trip for me is as we sat and sang our songs of faith and echoed a song of some pilgrims from Poland.

While the Via Delarosa is more well-known to our Catholic sisters and brothers, it was a meaningful experience to walk the path Jesus did on His triumphal entry into Jerusalem on Palm Sunday, and the path He continued to walk as he was stripped and given a cross to carry to Golgotha.

Thankfully we are a resurrection people. We know that there is more to life than such suffering and dying. We know that while we may experience all manner of setback, cruelty or pain – there is a balm in Gilead. Like our brothers and sisters the Jews, we are a people of hope that God’s blessing upon us will one day be revealed to the nations. “While tears may remain for a night, joy comes in the morning.” PSALMS

After a meaningful visit and communion service at the Garden Tomb, we’ve returned to our hotel and are packing our bags even as I write. We’ll have dinner here at the hotel and at 8:15 p.m. the bus will take us from Jerusalem back to Tel Aviv to catch our plane home. A red-eye of biblical proportions which leaves at 12:35 a.m. Our trip home will clock in at about 26 straight hours of travel.

It’s hard to believe that we’ve been here two weeks. The time has disappeared in seeing, learning, laughing, weeping, eating, and praying. We’ve been blessed, encouraged, and challenged – sometimes by what we’ve seen and sometimes by one another. I am fairly certain that no one was ‘unchanged’ by our time here. God indeed had something to speak to each one. Some shared their learnings as they were revealed, others will be unpacking their learnings for years to come. But like the Chosen People who have hosted us these past few weeks – we continue to believe in the faithfulness of the God Who is, Who was, and Who is to come… and perhaps we’re a little more convinced of His willingness to bless us.

“Toda” is the Hebrew word for “thank you.”

“Toda” Jerusalem
“Toda” Israel
“Toda” Jacob and David
“Toda” those who have prayed for us back home.

Bless God’s Holy Name.
WITH JOY AND PEACE, THE CELTIC MONK

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Yad Vashem and the Holocaust Museum of Israel

We stood in the Garden of the Nations and listened to a Hassidic Cantor remember the six million Jews who died in the Holocaust. He remembered them with the traditional mourning prayer, the Kaddish, which we had just said the day before together at the Western Wall for Glen Poston.

As I read the opening remarks in the first exhibit of Yad Vashem, I could not help but draw similarities that would not be popular in the Israel of today. When I read about how the Nazi’s first began to segregate and then take away rights of the Jews in the late 1930’s and early 40’s I recalled the reduced options of those who live in Israel now behind fences and in segregated neighborhoods. I am not drawing any conclusion as to how the situation here might proceed. It’s just that when any people see other people or people groups as objects—often bad things happen. I will pray for the peace of Jerusalem and all Israel.

We also visited the Museum of the Book… where the actual scroll fragments found at Qumran are stored. It’s a holy place. It will be a long time before the ministry of antiquities actually gets through everything found in those caves. How stunning to see pieces of ancient Hebrew Bible text, older than any that existed before this find. I want to learn more especially about “The Rule” which is an ancient code guiding people to live together in peace and order. It was likely a precursor to the “Rule” of Christian monastic communities.

We also had a chance to stroll in an authentic Israeli market as Jews from all over Jerusalem shopped for their Shabbat meal. Breads and fish and flowers abounded as folks hurried to get to their homes before sundown.

Today was a day of contrasts. The hope of the “people of the book” lay beside the memorial of such a massive extermination plan as the world has ever seen. May God give us His love in our hearts for all people. May we not grown weary in seeking peace. May all creation hope in a way of love. BLESSINGS AND JOY, THE CELTIC MONK

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Third Time is a Charm

I attemptd to send this to you all earlier this week and noticed it did not come through for some. When I tried to re-send, no luck. Let’s try it again. If all else fails I’ll email it once I’m home. Sorry if you get MULTIPLE copies of this edition!

Early this morning we visited Bethlehem. We left behind our Israeli guide and driver and were met at the security fence by an Arab Christian driver and guide for the morning. Bethlehem is one of the regions under the control of the Palestinian Authority. There is an uneasy peace between the two sacred towns of Bethlehen and Jerusalem since the Intifada of 2000.

What to say about all of that? It’s just difficult. Since the fighting, the Christian population has decreased from 70 percent to 30 percent. Life is difficult for all people; Arab Christians and Muslims alike in Bethlehem. Living behind the security fence inhibits the exchange of goods and services… prevents folks from working… it reminds everyone that peace is distant.

There are no easy answers here. We [Americans] cannot imagine what it would be like to one day not be able to visit friends or family a mere 8 miles from our homes; or no longer be able to get to our job, or shop at our favorite stores. But if I remember my Intifadas… it was Bethlehem that fired the first missle into their neighbor Jerusalem’s backyard — and while those in Bethlehem started this particular skirmish… Israel finished it separating even families from one another.

So imagine if you can leaving Bethlehem and having two young soldiers with weapons walk through our bus before giving us the okay to re-enter Jerusalem, which we’d left only 3 hours earlier. Yes indeed, there are no easy answers.

The afternoon brought us to the Western Wall. Out of respect to the Jews who worship here, we covered our heads and approached the wall to pray – men on the left, women on the right separated by a curtain. Our guide Jacob had given us an english translation of the Jewish prayer of mourning called the Kaddish, which we prayed on each side of the curtain, for Glen Poston who was to be with us on this trip, but passed away unexpectedly. Mary (Glen’s mom) and Sam (Glen’s brother) placed a small lapel pin in the shape of the state of Ohio (Glen’s home) in the wall as a memorial. The pin had a bicycle on it, as Glen was a bicycle enthusiast. We celebrated Glen’s life and God’s goodness.

Earlier in the afternoon we sat on the steps going up to the temple that were in place when Jesus would have entered the temple mount. While some of the upper stairs have been reconstructed — we chose to have our prayer on those steps which very likely were walked on by Jesus. Sitting on the stairs we looked across the valley to the Mount of Olives, Jesus’ favorite place to pray while in Jerusalem.

Indeed our day was very full. Full of new sights and sounds. Full of places that until today were only names. Full of questions of war and peace. Full of mourning and trust. We ended the day a good tired. That’s the tiredness that comes when your day has been well spent. More than once I heard someone say spontaneously “we are blessed.” Indeed we are. And to you who are reading this you’re included in that blessing. May we remember God’s faithfulness is good times and bad. JOY AND PEACE, THE CELTIC MONK

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REFLECTION

One thing there is little time for when you’ve traveled 6,000 miles and backwards two centuries, is reflection.

Yesterday, after our morning trek into Bethlehem, we entered Jerusalem through the Zion Gate…visited Kind David’s Tomb the holiest site in Judaism… climbed the steps to the Upper Room and continued a walking tour of the Jewish Quarter of the Old City. We saw several underground excavations of houses destroyed in the Roman conquest at the time of the destruction of the Temple in 70 A.D. And that was before lunch — really.

Our hotel sits just across a valley from the Old City facing south and a little east. From the floor to ceiling window we can see the Mount of Olives and the Muslim Quarter [which in reality is more like the 2/3rds] within the walls of the Old City.

This morning I heard the loud speakers blare the Muslim call to prayer before the sun came up. Now as the sun cuts through the morning haze the surface beauty of this troubled city begins to take shape and form.

There has been a law in Jerusalem for some time that the facades of all the buildings, homes and offices, must be “Jerusalem stone.” Everywhere you look are creamy white limstone blocks, some chisled, some smooth. They hide the differences and the unrest of a nation that is always on red alert status.

So this morning I pause to pray for the people of Jerusalem and of Bethlehem. As the sun now rises over the cloud bank that delayed the dawn, I pray for the delayed peace that Christ came to initiate. I pray for the day (and hope that it is soon) when those who wear crosses, and those who wear yamalkas and those who stop to pray when the speakers blare, will live together as seemlessly as this mass of Jerusalem stone buildings. There is no human facade that can make it so — only the Prince of Peace can make it true. BLESSINGS AND PEACE, THE CELTIC MONK

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Resend of BETHLEHEM & THE WESTERN WALL

I attemptd to send this to you all earlier this week… and it did not come through for some. Let’s try it again. If all else fails… I’ll email it once I’m home.
Early this morning we visited Bethlehem. We left behind our Israeli guide and driver and were met at the security fence by an Arab Christian driver and guide for the morning. Bethlehem is one of the regions under the control of the Palestinian Authority. There is an uneasy peace between the two sacred towns of Bethlehen and Jerusalem since the Intifada of 2000.

What to say about all of that? It’s just difficult. Since the fighting, the Christian population has decreased from 70 percent to 30 percent. Life is difficult for all people; Arab Christians and Muslims alike in Bethlehem. Living behind the security fence inhibits the exchange of goods and services… prevents folks from working… it reminds everyone that peace is distant.

There are no easy answers here. We [Americans] cannot imagine what it would be like to one day not be able to visit friends or family a mere 8 miles from our homes; or no longer be able to get to our job, or shop at our favorite stores. But if I remember my Intifadas… it was Bethlehem that fired the first missle into their neighbor Jerusalem’s backyard — and while those in Bethlehem started this particular skirmish… Israel finished it separating even families from one another.

So imagine if you can leaving Bethlehem and having two young soldiers with weapons walk through our bus before giving us the okay to re-enter Jerusalem, which we’d left only 3 hours earlier. Yes indeed, there are no easy answers.

The afternoon brought us to the Western Wall. Out of respect to the Jews who worship here, we covered our heads and approached the wall to pray – men on the left, women on the right separated by a curtain. Our guide Jacob had given us an english translation of the Jewish prayer of mourning called the Kaddish, which we prayed on each side of the curtain, for Glen Poston who was to be with us on this trip, but passed away unexpectedly. Mary (Glen’s mom) and Sam (Glen’s brother) placed a small lapel pin in the shape of the state of Ohio (Glen’s home) in the wall as a memorial. The pin had a bicycle on it, as Glen was a bicycle enthusiast. We celebrated Glen’s life and God’s goodness.

Earlier in the afternoon we sat on the steps going up to the temple that were in place when Jesus would have entered the temple mount. While some of the upper stairs have been reconstructed — we chose to have our prayer on those steps which very likely were walked on by Jesus. Sitting on the stairs we looked across the valley to the Mount of Olives, Jesus’ favorite place to pray while in Jerusalem.

Indeed our day was very full. Full of new sights and sounds. Full of places that until today were only names. Full of questions of war and peace. Full of mourning and trust. We ended the day a good tired. That’s the tiredness that comes when your day has been well spent. More than once I heard someone say spontaneously “we are blessed.” Indeed we are. And to you who are reading this you’re included in that blessing. May we remember God’s faithfulness is good times and bad. JOY AND PEACE, THE CELTIC MONK

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ISRAEL SEA WORLD AND SAFARI


Today was a day of fun sightseeing and relaxation… did I mention shopping? We began the day at the Underwater Sea Conservancy which was just beautiful. The conservancy allows land lovers to descend 20 feet under the sea into the middle of a coral reef. Fish, anemone, and coral abound.

After being underwater, we boarded Jeep-like Land Rovers for a trip up the Eliat mountains. This part of the desert gets less than .025 inches of precipitation each year. Fortunately for us, two months ago they had a deluge which they considered a “ten year” rain event which lasted several hours… and the desert began to bloom. Trees and flowers that had been conserving their precious water, seeds, blooms had come to life. WOW.

We continued up the mountain for about an hour over rough terrain until we reached what was undeniably the top. From there we could see (with the help of our guide) the borders of Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Israel and Egypt. There were stunning mountain ranges all around us, and a cool breeze even though it had been 90+ degrees on the bottom where we began.

We are very close to the location of King Solomon’s mines and we’ve learned more about some of his finery. There’s a semi-precious gemstone called Eliat, which is only mined here. It’s a combination of malachite, turquoise and lapis and is the colors of the most beautiful seas. Surely he had enough of these rare stones to decorate the temple as well as Cleopatra! Eliat shopping was on our agenda.

The final leg of our journey, 5 days in Jerusalem, commences tomorrow. In a way all that we’ve seen and done thus far is setting the tone for our time there. These past two days in Eliat have been very much like Jesus’ last days with the disciples before heading into Jerusalem; good food, good friends, good conversation and aware that something momentous is about to happen.

Bless those of you who are at home keeping us in your thoughts and prayers. You are never far from our hearts. Thanks to all those who are keeping watch over cats and birds and dogs and children! I’ve read the comments you’ve left to these updates, to the pilgrims on the bus each morning.

The week ahead will be both exhilirating and exhausting we’re trusting that the rewards will be great. BLESSINGS AND PEACE TO YOU UNTIL WE ARRIVE IN JERUSALEM! THE CELTIC MONK

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GEOGRAPHY, PHYSICAL AND SPIRITUAL


On Sunday we drove the length of the Negev Desert from the southern tip of the Dead Sea to the deep water port in the city of Eliat on the Red Sea. Along the way we stopped to take pictures of Lot’s wife, pillar that perhaps once stood on the shores of the Dead Sea but after shifts in tectonic plates, now is half way up a mountain.

About ten minutes before seeing the fertile port city in the distance looking much like an oasis, the air conditioning on the bus became ‘intermitent’. While on a bus in the Negev you do not want intermitent air conditioning! We were happy to reach the Isrotel Royal Beach Hotel where we have been pampered beyond our wildest dreams.

Standing on the balcony, we can see the nations of Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Egypt and of course Israel. The city of Eliat, Israel and the city of Acaba, Jordan share this northernmost tip of the Red Sea as a common deep water port. At least they do in times of peace. Just in case, their is an Israeli PT boat that cruises just beyond the swimming marker!

Last night after dinner we gathered together for worship. On the bus we drew lot’s marked with each part of a worship service that we were to prepare as our offering. Sam P. opened worship with a Jesus cheer. Linda chose “Holy, Holy, Holy” for our opening Hymn. David led us with a prayer of confession. Stuart read our Old Testament Lesson from the Book of Psalms. Harry chose to read the Beatitudes and then, Ed who was also invited to chose a scripture that was meaningful to him because of the places we had visited, also had prepared to read the same passage which he did along with some scholarly notes from the study Bible. Mary led us in singing “Jesus love the little children.” Barbara led us in a Hebrew Prayer (and its translation)… the Nichols offered a wonderful Benediction.

As we have taken in the geography of this state the size of New Jersey as is intended on pilgrimage, our spiritual geography changes as well. God in His ‘baruch hesed’ His blessed faithfulness and by His Holy Spirit, works what we are seeing into our hearts and minds and we are changed. It’s not the Damacus Road experience of Paul [although it could be] but instead a new wrinkle on our soul that holds new meaning.

It makes me hope that it to be true that each Sabbath is a mini-pilgrimage, where the geography of our spirit is altered as we walk through sacred places, participating in sacred ritual, changing us (even imperceptibly) more and more into the very Image of God. I have to wonder if that’s not what our Jewish sisters and brothers mean when they wish one another “Shabbat Shalom” — Good Sabbath. May we all experience such in the geography of our spirit. BLESSINGS AND JOY, THE CELTIC MONK

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AMAZING, AMAZING, AMAZING


I’m wondering tonight what amazes you? As you go through your day, do you ever feel really wowed, or really grateful? This week I’ve been amazed by people; some who’ve been dead and gone for thousands of years, and some who are traveling companions for this pilgrimage.

This morning we visited Beth Sheam, the largest active excavation in Israel located about half way between the Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea. A community of 40,000 from the 2nd century CE – the excavation includes the main street where the business of town occurred, a theatre, public baths, hippodrome, gymnasium and gold-smith shop.

What amazed me most was the creativity of both the builders of the city and the dedication of those who are piecing the city back together. The main street, called “Cardo” (the word from which we get ‘cardiologist’) was so named because it was the heart of the town. Many of the public buildings have intricate mosaic floors or walls not because it was necessary, only because it was uplifting. Those charged with the restoration are meticulously putting this city back together with pieces as small as ¼ inch x ¼ inch.

As has been true for much of our trip, we continue to be amazed by what we are privileged to be seeing. The most used phrases I hear are: “Can you believe this?” or “Isn’t it beautiful!” or “How amazing.” The picture above is of some of my awesome traveling companions. David, Mary and Harry (sorry Linda, you walked out of the picture!) I’m filled with gratitude to be appreciating Israel with them.

For thousands of years, the Creator of the Universe has been inspiring people to creative acts of necessity and beauty. It’s likely that you don’t need to travel 6,000 miles from home to see them. I want to encourage you to find something amazing right where you are today. [Or maybe create it.] But also remember the One who made all that has been made. My heart is full as this day comes to an end and I am truly amazed. I hope you will be too. BLESSINGS AND JOY, THE CELTIC MONK

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TRAVELING THE GALILEE

We’ve spent the past few days traveling The Galilee. I grew up thinking that Galilee was a city or town like Nazareth or Jerusalem. It wasn’t until my first trip to Israel that I learned that The Galilee was a region in northern Israel. The people here further differentiate between The Upper Galilee (north of Magdala/ Capernaum) and The Lower Galilee, the area we are staying in and around Tiberius, Nazareth, Mount Tabor [Transfiguration]

We visited the town of Nazareth where Mary the mother of Jesus was first approached by the angel Gabriel to learn she would be the mother of One to be called Emmanuel. It’s likely that Jesus spent the first 20 years of this life there. While in Magdala (Mary Magdalene’s hometown) we saw the boat that was excavated in 1986 and has been dated as a fishing boat of the 1st century. We sailed in a replica boat to the middle of the Sea where we heard scripture read, prayed the Lord ’s Prayer together and were led in singing “Amazing Grace” by Barbara Rumberger.

Another stop was the top of Mount Tabor – getting there is a miracle in itself with its switchbacks zigzagging us up the mountain. I don’t know about your recollection of the story in the Gospel, but I’m fairly sure that when Peter, James and John wanted to construct “booths” in the place they saw Jesus transfigured and where Elijah and Moses appeared next to him, Jesus said “no.” Yet today there is a rather large church on that place with… yes, you guessed it, three separate places to worship Moses, Elijah and Jesus.

After Mount Tabor, I stood in the headwaters of the Jordan River and after a short common liturgy, renewed the baptismal covenant of most of our travelers. Once again we claimed faith in Jesus Christ, once again we renounced Satan and the powers of evil in the world. It was a lovely expression of faith in a lovely setting on a lovely morning in northern Israel.

Tonight at sundown Shabbat begins, the Jewish Sabbath. What I see in this country as an observance of their Sabbath gives me pause. In anticipation of the Sabbath, stores have all closed. Families have gathered for leisure activities together (the kids aren’t at the mall, while the parents are somewhere else). I’m not so naïve as not to understand that some of these practices are cultural and not religious…but it challenges me to reconsider my practice of Sabbath as a day set apart.

While much of what we are seeing buoy’s our faith, some challenges what we learned in Sunday School. I know God has something specific to teach each of us as we continue to walk this faithful path. Being here convinces me that God has specific hopes and dreams for each one of us; that our faith is not one size fits most. What specific thing is God teaching you in this season of your life? Keep seeking. God is still calling. PEACE AND JOY, THE CELTIC MONK

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We’re Feeling Younger All the Time

You know it’s one thing to be 50+ living in a country that boasts being 200+ years old. But it’s quite another when you are 50+ and looking at the remains of a great harbor, summer palace and aqueduct all 2,000 years old. In fact, it makes you feel younger!

Today we visited Herod the Greats’ summer palace in Caesarea on the shore of the Mediterranean. There we saw the ruins of an outdoor stone theater… think of a semi-circle of limestone seats 14 rows high and a stage with the sea as its backdrop. The remains of numerous pillars, capitals, sarcophagus, and a hippodrome… think Ben Hur. Down the road a bit we touched and took pictures of what’s left of the aqueduct which carried fresh water to this elaborate seaside resort. Amazing.

We also visited Mount Carmel, where Elijah and his God outwitted the prophets of Baal. See I Kings 18-19. We travelled the Jezreel Valley, stopped at a Druze establishment for a falafel pita with fresh veggie garnish for lunch. At Tel Megiddo we saw the remains of the stables of King Solomon where he housed 400 horses and we walked down 186 steps to see how King Ahab got water to this very strategic Tel from a spring outside the city. It only took 80 steps to climb out at the site of the ancient spring.

We’ve been blessed with beautiful weather, food that will put our home cooking to shame and the good company of one another. What comes to mind is the Scripture that says: “How good and pleasant it is when brothers and sisters live together in peace.” In a place that has know war since the times of the patriarchs, we’ve been blessed with a peaceful time together.

Bob Nichols said to me this morning, “I’ve read these stories for 70 years and now I’m trying to get my mind around seeing them.” I think many of us echo that. Yes, we are blessed. PEACE AND JOY, THE CELTIC MONK

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